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Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Nicaragua Part II

Granada

One day, J, a few of her cousins, and I went on a trip to a city called Granada, which is southeast of Managua. Granada is a popular tourist town as it has beautiful Spanish colonial architecture and is located by the water. We took a boat ride off the coast of Granada and rode around the thousands of islands created by a volcanic eruption a long time ago. Many of the islands have houses or hotels on them and two of them had restaurants. We stopped at one to eat some fresh fish and drink Nicaraguan beers. There was even a small pool for the kiddies.

La Catédral de Granada


A view from the boat





Diriamba and the Festival of San Sebastian

Diriamba is a small town known primarily for its clock tower and its annual Festival of San Sebastian, which I was fortunate enough to attend. It is a relatively poor town and most of the residents seemed to own their own businesses and sell goods at the market or provide services such as auto repair or tech support. J's cousin who hosted us, for example, made Nicaraguan cheese, a delightful smoky, salty cheese, in his back patio and sold it at the market. 

The famous clock tower of Diriamba

When I first told J that I would be able to join her on her trip to Nicaragua she mentioned the Festival of San Sebastian and said that she was excited because she had never had a chance to see it before. San Sebastian is the patron saint of Diriamba and the next town over also celebrates its patron saint the week before, so the area basically has a two week long party. She mentioned that there would be a horse parade and that we might even get a chance to ride her uncle's horse. She also said there would be dancing and music and, oh yeah, a bull they light on fire that runs through the streets. A bull on fire? That runs through the streets? She didn't provide any additional detail and I assumed that I had misheard her and later forgot all about it.

The festival lasted a number of days. One day was dancing and music, another day was the horse parade, still another was a re-creation of the Spanish colonialists arriving in Nicaragua. For the latter, male residents dress up in white masks and costumes and dance with each other. Both male and female characters are played by men. It was a strange sight to behold. Later, they had a shrine to San Sebastian which they carried through the town.



Later in the week, J and I arrived late at night and saw that a huge crowd had assembled in the town center. People were squished onto the sidewalks though the streets had been closed to cars for the festival. We waited and waited not knowing what was supposed to happen and finally some fireworks went off. J and I couldn't figure out why people were watching the fireworks from just a few areas of the square. The fireworks were up in the air, so shouldn't they be standing all over? We moved from the very crowded sidewalk onto the street where a few men and teenage boys were standing drinking beer. There was a lot more space there and we enjoyed the fireworks in our spacious spots. Then, all of a sudden, we heard screaming and I just caught a glimpse of what appeared to be fire running through the street. Then I heard J yell "the bull!" We quickly ran to the sidewalk and fought our way through the crowds to get away from the bull just as it rammed itself into a bunch of people. I couldn't see it but I heard screaming and could tell that it was running from one side of the street to the other. "Is that a real bull?" I asked incredulously. J laughed. She explained that it's just a man dressed up as a bull with fireworks shooting off of him. We later found out that teenage boys will intentionally confront the bull in order to obtain burns and scars, which they show off to teenage girls. We left soon after the bull arrived.

Friday, August 25, 2017

Nicaragua Part I

My good friend, J (no, not that J, a different J) invited me to visit Nicaragua with her. J's family hails from there and she visits frequently. I'd never been to Central America and had always wanted to go so I was excited to join her. Little did I know that Nicaragua would mean active volcanoes, fantastic food, and a fiery bull running through the streets. Such fun!

Arriving

I flew to Managua, the capital city, by way of San Salvador* and arrived late at night. Flying into Managua at night, the most obvious feature was the presence of hundreds of neon trees lining the city's boulevards. I thought they looked nice and inviting but I later found out that they were a little bit controversial. Apparently they were a pet project of the president's wife,** but in a country where electricity is unstable and frequently goes out, it was seen as wasteful.

J's cousin was nice enough to come pick me up from the airport and we made our way to Diriamba, where J's family resides. Managua was foggy at night and its winding roads meant the 25 mile trip to Diriamba took a couple of hours. Though Diriamba is a relatively small town, we were there during a weeklong feast day celebration and so there were often big crowds of people, particularly at night. My friend J was just leaving a music concert and we grabbed some late night dinner from a restaurant with an outdoor grill and patio.

Not a great picture but a good summary of what I ate in Nicaragua: grilled meat, plaintains, beans, and rice.
Volcanoes

The next day we went volcano hopping. We started at Mombacho, a volcano which I was told was dormant only to find when we got to the top of it that no one actually knows whether it is active or dormant since steam comes out of the top. We walked around the perimeter of the crater and saw some fantastic views of the surrounding area.



Next up was the active Masaya. You can drive to the top and peer over the edge at the bubbling lava.

A great place to destroy an evil ring.

The Beach and Public Transportation

Even though it was the dead of winter, the temperature in Nicaragua was in the 70s. Since the weather was so nice, we decided to spend a day at the beach at a place called La Boquita. To get to the beach, we took public transportation, which is a little bit different from the public transportation I've used in other countries. For one thing, the vehicles consist of minivans and donated school buses. And the vehicles do not have set times or stops. Instead, they leave when they are completely full (and when I say "completely full" I mean every seat is taken, people are standing in the spaces between the seats, and in the case of the minivan, people are holding onto the door and hanging out of the vehicle) and stop wherever people ask them to stop along the route. Because the vehicles are so packed with people, you get to know your fellow riders very well. For most of the ride to La Boquita, I had a man's sweaty armpit in my face. Fortunately, it wasn't a long trip.

A picture of us taking public transportation.

Seafood stew at the beach: lobster, crab, shrimp, raw turtle eggs, and some type of fish, with a side of plaintains and rice.





What we didn't realize when we took public transportation was that it stopped running at around 5pm. Since we didn't leave the beach until 7pm, we were in a bit of a pickle. Fortunately for us, a large cattle truck had stopped by the beach to get some provisions and the driver was willing to take us back to Diriamba. We waited the half hour or so it took the driver and the workers who were with him to finish their refreshments and then we all piled into the back. The workers sat atop the truck but we chose to sit inside the truck bed (I think that's what it's called). At one end was a hammock which one of the workers slept in while we drove. Since the truck bed was comprised of wooden slats, we were able to see the stars above us while we rode. Perhaps not the safest method of transportation, but it was a beautiful clear night.


A picture of us taking a very different type of public transportation.

*Tip: When you fly to Managua by way of San Salvador, you will not need to go through any additional customs/immigration/security. However, when you fly back to the US by way of San Salvador, you will. So make sure you're not carrying on any big liquids (like, for example, a big bottle of flor de caña) with you when you're flying back.

** The president's wife, Rosario Murillo, is a fascinating woman. Among other things, some Nicaraguans believe she is a witch.